Curtains are one of those things people often leave until the very end. You pick a colour you like, guess the size, and click buy. Then you hang them up and realise: they let in too much light, don't block the view, feel rough, or shrink after one wash. But choosing curtains doesn't have to be complicated. Get clear on three things – what fabrics are out there, what you actually need them to do, and how to hang them – and you'll get it right the first time.
Chapter 1: What Curtains and Sheers Are Actually Available
You can't choose until you know what's out there.
Main curtain fabrics
Cotton‑linen blends are the most popular option. They mix cotton, linen, and polyester – breathable and natural‑looking, but with enough polyester to keep them crisp and durable. Great value for living rooms or studies, but if you want full blackout, you'll need a lining.
Polyester is strong, elastic, and tough. It handles heat and wear well, and it's excellent at blocking light. Most bedroom blackout curtains are polyester with a black inner layer. If you want "pitch black at midday", go polyester.
Velvet and chenille are soft, heavy, and drape beautifully. They look expensive and work well in classic, luxe, or vintage rooms. Downside? They attract dust – not ideal if anyone has allergies.
High‑density fabric is tightly woven, drapes well, and has a slight sheen. It blocks light and noise effectively, but it's pricey and feels stiffer and heavier.
Main sheer fabrics
Sheers aren't for blocking light – they're for softening it and giving you daytime privacy.
Frosted sheer is the most practical choice. It lets light in but keeps prying eyes out. It's wrinkle‑resistant, drapes naturally, doesn't snag easily, and you can even machine wash it. Perfect if privacy is your priority.
Scratch‑resistant sheer is tough. Cat claws won't ruin it. If you have pets, this is the one.
Chiffon sheer feels soft and floats beautifully. It's decorative – it softens the light but doesn't really hide much. Privacy is average.
Vertical sheer has stripe textures, good weight, and nice drape. But light sneaks through the stripes, so privacy is just okay. Wide windows need joins, and if the join isn't perfect, it shows.
Mirror or coated sheer blocks the view from outside better than almost anything else. It also reflects heat, so it helps with cooling. The fabric is stiffer though – less floaty, more structured.
Chapter 2: Choose Based on What You Actually Need
Don't just pick what looks pretty. Pick what does the job.
Need 1: Light in, but keep privacy
If your windows face a neighbour's balcony or you live on a low floor, you need daytime privacy. You want light, but you don't want people seeing in.
Go for frosted sheer, coated sheer, or mirror sheer. People outside can't see in, but your room stays bright. Frosted sheer is the easiest to live with – washable, tough, and no fuss.
Need 2: Full light, full view, just soften the glare
If your window looks out to a garden or the ocean, or you just want that soft, breezy look, privacy isn't the goal. The sheer is basically decoration.
Chiffon, vertical, or fishbone sheers work here. Chiffon is the most floaty and romantic. Vertical sheers cast beautiful striped shadows. Fishbone sheers have good weight and texture.
Need 3: Block light so you can actually sleep
Bedroom curtains have one job: block light. If you're a light sleeper, work nights, or have a window that catches morning sun, you need at least 90% blackout.
Get physical blackout curtains. Avoid the coated ones – they peel, go stiff, and sometimes smell weird after a couple of years. Physical blackout has black yarn woven right into the fabric. It blocks light by structure, not coating. Shine a torch behind it – the less light you see, the better. Dark colours (charcoal, navy, coffee) block more light than light ones.
Need 4: You have pets
Cat owners know: curtains are climbing frames. Normal sheers last about five minutes.
Scratch‑resistant sheer is the answer. Claws won't tear it. For the main curtains, go with velvet – it's thick, smooth, and doesn't attract static hair like some fabrics do.
Need 5: Stop the heat, save on cooling
West‑facing rooms and top floors get blasted by afternoon sun. Good curtains can cut the heat and lower your power bill.
Mirror sheer or foil‑backed polyester curtains work best. Mirror sheer reflects sunlight. Foil‑backed curtains work even better, but don't use them in bedrooms – the coating can have a smell.
Need 6: Block noise from the street
If you live on a busy road, near a train line, or above a noisy café, thick curtains help.
High‑density fabric, velvet, or chenille are your friends. The denser and heavier the fabric, the more noise it soaks up.
Chapter 3: Tracks and Measurements – Don't Get This Wrong
You can buy the most beautiful curtains in the world, but if the track is wrong or the size is off, they'll look terrible.
Track options: rod vs quiet track vs ultra‑thin track
A decorative rod is the classic exposed option. The rod itself is part of the look. Easy to install, good for windows without a pelmet. But rods over 3.5m can bend, they don't glide smoothly, and light leaks over the top.
A quiet track is hidden inside a pelmet (a built‑in box above the window). You can't see the track at all. Inside, it has silent nano strips or resin wheels – super smooth and quiet, even with heavy curtains. Zero light leak. Downside? You need to build the pelmet during renovation – at least 15–20cm deep.
An ultra‑thin track is a newer option. It's only about 1cm thick, so you can mount it on the ceiling or wall without a pelmet. Almost invisible. Great for rentals or rooms without a pelmet. It can't take super heavy curtains, but it's fine for normal fabric and sheers.
Which one should you choose?
If you have a pelmet and want zero light leak and silent operation, go with a quiet track. Add a crossover connector so the two curtains overlap in the middle – no gap.
If you don't have a pelmet and don't want a decorative rod, go with an ultra‑thin track. Mount it on the ceiling and you'll barely see it.
If you have no pelmet, standard ceiling height, and light curtains, a decorative rod is fine.
How to measure
Width: If you're covering the whole wall, measure the wall. If you're only covering the window, add 20–30cm on each side – otherwise light will sneak in around the edges.
Height: Floor‑length curtains should sit 2–3cm above the floor – no dragging, no dust, and the robot vacuum can get past. If you're using a pelmet track, measure from the track down, then subtract 2–3cm.
Folds: Standard is double width (2x fabric to window width). That gives you deep, full folds. For very wide windows (over 4m), 1.8x is fine – saves money and still looks good.
One Last Thing: Come See for Yourself
Curtains are one of those things you really need to see and touch. You can't feel the weight of velvet through a screen. You can't see how frosted sheer actually looks in daylight. You can't test how quietly a track glides from a photo.
If you're stuck on fabric, colour, or track type, come to our Peachpod showroom. We've got dozens of curtain and sheer samples – cotton‑linen, velvet, frosted sheer, scratch‑proof sheer, everything. Feel them. Hold them up to the light. Bring your window measurements. Our team can help you match fabric to your needs – low floor or high, morning sun or afternoon, pets or no pets, budget big or small.
Measured your window but not sure what to do next? Send us a photo. We'll help you work it out. Curtains are something you open and close every single day. Get them right, and it makes your day just a little bit better.
Peachpod Showroom
3 Figtree Dr, Sydney Olympic Park NSW 2127
Open daily
Online: https://peachpod.com.au/